Archive for December, 2011

19 Dec 2011

SIBL Round 3 – The Castle

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Every year the SIBL seems to grow and this year is no exception. There appears to be more people than ever, at all ability levels and all having an amazing time.

This round was at The Castle in London and has totally set the standard for all future SIBL events. For ease and quickness I’ve jotted down a quick list of why I thought it was so good.

  1. Variety of Walls.
  2. Setting styles and variety of problems.
  3. Stripped climbing areas with only comp problems on.
  4. New Volumes.
  5. Mechanised Volumes.
  6. Continuity of circuit hold colour.
  7. Proper style final format with commentary and good tunes.
  8. Motivated organisational venue team.

So all of this said the event was amazing but I found myself again lacking the cutting edge. This was the same in both the final and qualification rounds.

I managed to do all of the boulders which was good but on 3 of them I made continual mistakes which cost me heavily in the points tally. I found myself through the crux and entering easy ground only to slip or choose the incorrect method to complete easy moves. This seems to be a common theme at the moment and It is playing havoc with my brain.

I normally pride myself on my ability to find the line of least resistance as I have been too weak to do things in a direct way. I know I am training hard and I am getting stronger but it seems to be coming at the price of my actual climbing ability.

Having faith in a training plan is hard, particularly when you see things that you used to be good at getting worse. I guess I just have to stick with the program, swallow the ego and pride and take solace in that at the end of pre season the whole package will be better.

I finished up 2nd in the qualifier and final to my old friend and mentor Liam Halsey. For the record I know he is an incredible climber and competitor and my anger is not that he won (which is always disappointing) but at my own inadequacies and poor execution.

Anyway as always I had a super fun day and the next thing of interest in my diary is two weeks of strength training in HUECO TANKS. Time for some real execution training.