Archive for April, 2012

23 Apr 2012

Slovenia Boulder World Cup

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So i’m back from the first European round of the Bouldering World Cup circuit for 2012 which was held in Log Dragomer, Slovenia.

The comp itself was very good and seemed like a real step forwards for the tour and the sport in terms of both organisation and spectacle.

Shauna Coxsey earned her first ever podium place in a world cup and the best British female result to date. It is obvious watching her compete that she is already establishing herself as a world class competitor and it will not be long before she wins both a World Cup and the overall competition. Dave Barrans also put in a great effort and made semi’s coming 17th overall.

In terms of my performance I left feeling naturally frustrated in my poor statistical performance, (I ended up joint 45th out of 71), but more disappointed in my failure to execute simple moves.

I felt good (aside from my injured finger) and flashed the first problem. Boulders 2 and 4 were the two other climbs requiring success to earn qualification to the semi final and I fumbled the easier moves after completing the crux on both climbs.

Reviewing my performance I would say moving forwards I need to get through the crux moves earlier in my 5 minute allocation so that should I fail on the easier moves above the crux I have time to go back to the start knowing what to do and finish it off.

Sounds pretty simple really but having spent some of this morning reviewing the field and results for the male competition it becomes clear the depth of talent this season and how fiercely competitive it is throughout each round.

  • Out of the 71 men who competed 50 had all been in semi finals before.
  • All of the men’s semi finalists have also been finalists in previous comps.
  • Every men’s finalist had won at least 1 WC (or in Rubtsov’s case, the WCH)

I’m looking forward to getting back on the circuit again on Thursday when I fly to Vienna for the next round. I hope I learn from my mistakes, get a bit of luck and make it to the semi.