Archive for Videos

23 Feb 2013

Big Biscuit Boulder Comp

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16 Feb 2013

Blocfest Round 4 – Bristol

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09 Feb 2013

Best of British Team Trials

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02 Feb 2013

Rocover Rocfest Comp

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19 Jan 2013

Blocfest Round 3 – Reading

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12 Sep 2012

Paris World Championships

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04 May 2012

Vienna Boulder World Cup

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Firstly I just want to say how awesome it is to see Shauna crushing again. It is a total inspiration to watch.

I’ve had a very busy and exciting week at work since my return from the latest round of the boulder world cup in Vienna but it has given me some time to reflect on things.

To write about the should, would, could of’s seems both counterproductive and a little too much like a broken record. Suffice to say that I am once again disappointed in my result, but taking solace in the depth of talent in the field and my personal developments.

The web casting company are now uploading each round of the competition onto YouTube after each event and I am finding it really beneficial. As a competitor you never get to watch yourself climb or compare your own performance to your peers.

This post comp self analysis is really helping me psychologically and I am learning some key (albeit obvious) things:

  1. Everyone falls.
  2. I am by no means the strongest, but I am at a standard good enough to compete.
  3. You don’t have to do all the climbs to succeed, but it helps.

In addition to these “revelations” in terms of my personal development I do feel I am making gains. I am much more relaxed when competing, I feel I can read the problems and know how to complete them, and my skill set is good enough to compete. My ability to execute the problems is still however the biggest and most persistent issue.

I am really looking forward to heading back to Innsbruck in two weeks for the next round, the European Championships which were held there two years ago were amazing and I am very pumped up for it.

23 Apr 2012

Slovenia Boulder World Cup

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So i’m back from the first European round of the Bouldering World Cup circuit for 2012 which was held in Log Dragomer, Slovenia.

The comp itself was very good and seemed like a real step forwards for the tour and the sport in terms of both organisation and spectacle.

Shauna Coxsey earned her first ever podium place in a world cup and the best British female result to date. It is obvious watching her compete that she is already establishing herself as a world class competitor and it will not be long before she wins both a World Cup and the overall competition. Dave Barrans also put in a great effort and made semi’s coming 17th overall.

In terms of my performance I left feeling naturally frustrated in my poor statistical performance, (I ended up joint 45th out of 71), but more disappointed in my failure to execute simple moves.

I felt good (aside from my injured finger) and flashed the first problem. Boulders 2 and 4 were the two other climbs requiring success to earn qualification to the semi final and I fumbled the easier moves after completing the crux on both climbs.

Reviewing my performance I would say moving forwards I need to get through the crux moves earlier in my 5 minute allocation so that should I fail on the easier moves above the crux I have time to go back to the start knowing what to do and finish it off.

Sounds pretty simple really but having spent some of this morning reviewing the field and results for the male competition it becomes clear the depth of talent this season and how fiercely competitive it is throughout each round.

  • Out of the 71 men who competed 50 had all been in semi finals before.
  • All of the men’s semi finalists have also been finalists in previous comps.
  • Every men’s finalist had won at least 1 WC (or in Rubtsov’s case, the WCH)

I’m looking forward to getting back on the circuit again on Thursday when I fly to Vienna for the next round. I hope I learn from my mistakes, get a bit of luck and make it to the semi.

05 Mar 2012

Life on Hold is coming…

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I have been out filming sporadically with the guys from Outcrop films over the past couple of years as they document the state of the current UK bouldering scene. The film is due to have its UK premier on Saturday 24th March at The Climbing Works, Sheffield. It will then be on tour around the UK visiting the largest regional cimbing centres for screenings.

I am really excited and proud to be featuring in this film and hope you all will either come out to a screening or buy the film to show your support. The film is totally self funded and is the first film of its kind for over a decade.

“The film follows Britain’s top climbers and visiting stars around the UK, tackling some of the highest and hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We’ve filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulderers and their tour around Britain’s finest.”

07 Feb 2012

Back to the slush

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So my two week trip to Hueco has come to an end and from sitting in the warmth of the Texas Desert it feels very strange coming back to the snow in the UK.

I arrived back in the UK at 6.45am yesterday morning. By 9am as I was back at my desk at work feeling totally battered and jet lagged. Given the problems at Heathrow we were super lucky not to be delayed.

I have not really had time to fully digest the the trip yet, but it in overall I would say that it was amazing and I had a really fun time. I spent time with some great firends, met new people and enjoyed my break from work.

Being able to climb everyday (that skin and injuries permit) is a real bonus when compared to our native climate. As I have been showing through my videos it is also obvious that the climbing and location are still world class and even though it was my third time visiting there are still many blocs I want to go back for.

My main goal for the trip was to climb 8b and while I climbed many new amazing  problems and completed previous projects I am filled with a an underlying feeling of failure.

I know that there were several factors limiting my success which I have highlighted below and but at the end of the day I feel like they are just excuses!! Either way I will hold onto them over the next few months of training before the world cups.

  • Skin – I love climbing and although I tried hard to limit myself to only trying harder stuff, its a long way to go to sit under one boulder and i did end up getting side tracked. This destroyed my skin.
  • Elbow problem – As previously blogged I picked up a random elbow problem which lost me a few days.
  • Problems only at tour locations – All the problems at the 8b grade I wanted to climb are at guided tour locations so you need a guide and group to go with. This limits the amount of time at each boulder and financially costs more to visit each time. With the exception of Crown I only had a 20 min session on each of the other problems. This is simply not enough time.
  • Climbing multiple days – I climbed too many consecutive days on before each rest day. Had I adopted a 1 on 1 off system i think i would have had better success. However as I mentioned above in such an amazing place not climbing when you can seems mental.
  • Two week trip – At your limit with the points above it is not enough time.

I will be putting together a full combined video in the near future of the trip but in the mean time here is the last climb of the trip I managed to do – Free Willy, V10.

There is some confusion over where the problem actually starts and on my first trip it appears that I actually started in the wrong place. Having watched Grant send the line earlier in the trip I felt I had to go back and do it properly.