Archive for Videos

25 Nov 2011

Westway Super League Final

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Yesterday was the final round of the Westway Super league. This event took place over three rounds spread out of Sept, Oct and Nov. Each round allowed competitors to test their moves out on 20 purpose built problems for each category.

The final round was really fun and the route setting team of Liam ‘The Hit Man’ Halsey and Yann Genoux had plenty of surprises in store.

I think the most memorable problem (which was aptly named ‘The Saddle’) made competitors sit on top of a volume with basically no hands to finish. This gave a horse riding effect if you could not get in the right position and I certainly rode it for a while!!

I have been struggling with climbing performance over the past few months due to high training intensity and frequency and felt totally wasted on the drive in. I managed to warm up well and treated myself to some Optimum Nutrition Amino energy which helped fuel me and give me some additional focus and awareness. Optimum are one of my sponsors and were also the headline sponsor for the event which was fortunate.

The turn out was great for a local comp on a Friday night and yielded a strong male open field. I had difficulty with two of the boulders, the first a fingery slab with bad grips which i got 4th try and the second a steep burly volume test piece which I managed on my third try.

They were awesome comp problems as I left feeling very frustrated that I had’nt flashed them both. To me that’s the fun part of comp climbing, if you find the right body position and sequence they feel like a path, otherwise utterly desperate!

Anyway I won the round and overall competition and really enjoyed being on top of the unusual podium (Picture). I hope they will run it again next year and its bigger and better, a massive thanks to Rob and all the team at the Westway for making it happen.

Liam Cook has produced a nice little short of the event too, it features my man Grant Bateman depsatching ‘The Saddle’ with considerably more ease than me….

Super League Podium

14 Nov 2011

SIBL Round 2 – The Arch

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I think that Sunday’s second round at The Arch in London should be considered by all a real step forward for the competition series.

It was the first SIBL to my knowledge that used a mini world cup style final format for male and female open categories to close the event.

In my opinion this creates much more of a spectacle for all to enjoy rather than the traditional fun speed head to head route. It also provides a true showcase for the competition as a whole and allows route setters to be extra creative and the days finalists to reap the rewards of a hard days climbing with some amazing blocs in front of the crowd.

Having been a spectator at many finals, I believe it also gives a lot more motivation to those competitors who don’t qualify to go away and train harder so that they can one day be part of it too.

The programme for the day consisted of 20 boulders on a 10, 7, 3 points system with the top 3 from each category going through to the final. There was a great crowd for the finals and the new room at the arch provides a great atmosphere with plenty of space for all to see plus the viewing gantry and comp style boards.

I had a fairly rough day at the office and felt poor throughout making a few silly mistakes and lacking the killer blow to flash key problems. Having said that I did scrape through to the final ahead of the others and sealed the second stage win.

The next stop on the tour is at The Castle Climbing Centre in London on Saturday 10th Dec. Mike and the guys always put on a great day with unimaginable blocs which are impossible to prepare for, I’m already dreading it. Add into the mix the new style finals format (which I hope they will run), Reel Rock Tour films and their Christmas party it is going to be an awesome day / night. Make sure you get down.

As always Ed was there to cover the event and with a remote controlled boom cam from the gantry has created a great edit.

18 Oct 2011

Start of a new SIBL series

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With 180 competitors Sundays event was the busiest they have ever had and attracted a very high standard of competitor. However the competition remains a fun outing and a great opportunity to pit your bouldering skills against your friends and other enthusiasts. The team at Craggy worked all week with all routes set specifically for each event by Mark Croxall.

The Southern Indoor Bouldering League has been in existence in one form or another for 20 years its a great event and well worth trying to get to one of the rounds in your area if you can. It was the first competition I ever entered and I have a real love relationship with it. I like everything about it; the people, the vibe, the format and centres. I use it these days to keep my competitive head in gear during pre season training, however as I won the series last year I also want to retain my title!!

For SIBL depending on the category entered you get a colour coded score card and then your left to find the routes tagged with the colour of your card. The competition consists of 20 boulders in 4 hours and you get points according to the amount of attempts it takes you to complete the route.

  • 10 points for 1st try
  • 7 points for 2nd try
  • 3 points for 3rd try
  • 1 point for any subsequent attempt

I was feeling good on the day having rested the day before and managed to flash all but one of the boulders which I could not link due to skin issues. This was disappointing as I really wanted to do them all and get full score but on balance a great start. I think I managed to get a 30 point (3 bloc) lead on the day and for the league.

Here is the video report from Slender films who document the series. The next round is on Sunday 13th November at The Arch near London Bridge. This is a really great centre with good walls and great setters. Resident bloc guru Yann and special guest Gaz Parry will be on hand to provide the funk.

 

24 Jul 2011

Life On Hold Trailer Released

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LIFE ON HOLD is a new UK bouldering film from Outcrop Films.

Follow Britain’s top climbers and visiting WADs, as they tackle some of the hardest problems around. From the tough, mentally challenging highballs on the gritstone edges, to the short, powerful, esoteric testpieces of the limestone and everything in between. We’ve filmed the new emerging scene of strong boulders’ and their tour around Britain’s finest.

Featuring: Ned Feehally, Dan Varian, David Mason, Jon Partridge, Michele Caminati, Ryan Pasquill, Micky Page, Miles Gibson and Ben Thompson

With appearances from: Klemen Becan, Nalle Hukkataival, Jernej Kruder and Will Abbott

Music: Endless Hands of Time by Sheridan Tongue

24 Jun 2011

Ben’s Roof

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I had tried this problem several years ago and never managed to link it. I was up filming for the soon to be released ‘Life on Hold’ DVD with Outrop films and on a quiet day popped over to attempt it.

I figured out the sequence quickly and completed it. It was a fun day and again Outrop Films were there to document some sillyness and the ascent.

24 Apr 2011

Chimaera

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Southern Sandstone has for many years been considered a laughing stock of British climbing. I had never really been and felt like I needed to form my opinion.

I had a rally fun day classic bashing some amazing boulders, hiballs and managed to bag the 4th ascent of the coveted Chimaera.

It is a stunning line with unbelievable movement and sequence. This video includes some of highlights and is shot by Outcrop Films.

25 Mar 2011

Vintage Gritstone

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After the semi-finals of the Climbing Works International Festival, we took Nalle Hukkataival out to try some of the gritstone classics at Stanage Plantation.

We bumped into rock stars Alex Puccio and Chris Webb-Parsons and the session quickly got out of hand. Slender Films were there to document.

We made it back just in time to catch the finals too.

24 Mar 2011

CWIF 2011

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This spring I took part in the annual Climbing Works International Festival 2011. The event took place over two days; Day one was qualification (300 competing) and Day two the semi Finals (top 16) and finals (Top 6).

I managed to make the semi final and finished 14th. It was a fantastic weekend and amazing competition. This video is by Outcrop Films and documents the weekend.

20 Mar 2011

Cooking with the Champ

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Ned Feehally is one of Britain’s top boulderers. He’s won the British bouldering championships three times, climbed into the high font 8 grades, set new standards of training with the Beastmaker….. But perhaps his greatest achievements lie in the kitchen. Watch how the Champ takes baking to a new level in his preparation for the Climbing Works International Festival…..

25 Feb 2011

Revolution Holds Commercial

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Commercial for Revolution Holds shot back in Feb by Slender Films.

Filmed out of hours at The Castle Climbing Centre we had a full run of the place.

It was a really hard evenings work having to climb the same blocs over and over but a great experience being on a set.

Crane camera, flashes, lights and action. The result looks pretty cool.

Check out Revolution holds; they have some great shapes and they are good on the skin.